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Rosacea sufferers are always on the lookup for suitable cleansers and moisturizers. One of the pearls in finding relief from rosacea symptoms is that finding a supporting and gentle cleansing and moisturizing (and protective) regime is important.
A recent paper by Dr. Patricia Farris, Skin Care Based on Science: Improving Outcomes in Rosacea, tells us that a `properly chosen’ moisturizer may help reduce irritation that may come from using topical rosacea medications. The paper details a study where NeoStrata cleanser and moisturizer was used as a skincare regime to accompany the topical Finacea.
The author of the Cosmetic Dermatology 2012, Vol 25. No. 2 paper, Dr. Farris is a consultant for the NeoStrata Company.
NeoStrata Facial Cleanser is promoted as “soap-free, hypoallergenic facial cleanser that gently exfoliates without drying the skin.” The facial cleanser contains 4% Gluconolactone
NeoStrata Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream is described as “Sensitive skin and first time AHA users can gently exfoliate and moisturize the skin while reducing the signs of aging with this emollient cream.” The Moisturizing Cream contains 10% Gluconolactone.
What is a Gluconolactone?
Gluconolactone is the name of an ingredient known as PHA. PHA stands for Poly Hyrdroxy Acid. Wikipedia tells us that Gluconalactone, also known as `Glucono delta-lactone’ is additionally known as the food additive E575. It has many uses including “sequestrant, an acidifier,[4] or a curing, pickling, or leavening agent”.
Paper Extract
Skin Care Based on Science: Improving Outcomes in Rosacea
Cosmet Dermatol. 2012;25:72-78.
…
Draelos et al [77] conducted a 12-week, single-site, investigator-blinded, randomized study of 66 patients with mild-to-moderate PPR.
All of the patients in the study used azelaic acid 15% gel (AzA) in addition to either a self-selected skin care regimen or a dermatologist-selected skin care regimen.
Group 1 utilized AzA plus their own self-selected cleanser and moisturizer and Group 2 used AzA plus the dermatologist-selected polyhydroxy acid (PHA)-containing cleanser and moisturizer (NeoStrata Facial Cleanser and Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream, NeoStrata, Princeton, New Jersey).
Subjects were instructed not to use any systemic medications or new products four weeks prior to the study and to discontinue all topical skin medications two weeks before the study.
During the study period, clinical evaluations were performed at Weeks 2, 4, 8, and 12. The investigator assessed the erythema, dryness, and telangiectasias on a 3-point scale and the subjects completed self-assessments of stinging, burning, itching, tightness, and tingling on a 5-point scale. Digital photographs were also taken at each visit.
Improvements were seen in skin sensitivity, dryness, texture, smoothness, and overall skin condition with statistical significance (p<0.05) in the patients using the dermatologist-recommended regimen (Group 2) compared to those using their own self-selected regimen (Group 1).
However, it should be noted that neither regimen altered the magnitude of inflammatory lesion reduction produced by AzA in treating the papules and pustules of PPR.
Draelos also noted an appreciable clinical improvement in background erythema in patients using the dermatologist-selected regimen and postulates that this improvement in background erythema may be a result of improved SC function from the gluconolactone in the formula. [77]
Gluconolactone is a PHA that exhibits humectant properties, which can improve SC barrier function temporarily by inducing a swelling of corneocytes as discussed previously. [52], [53], [78].
References
- An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patients. Draelos ZD, Green BA, Edison BL, J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006 Mar; 5(1):23-9. [77]
- Stratum corneum ceramides and their role in skin barrier function. In: Leyden J, Rawlings A, editors. Skin Moisturization. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc.; 2002. pp. 31–520. [52]
- Water distribution and related morphology in human stratum corneum at different hydration levels. Bouwstra JA, de Graaff A, Gooris GS, Nijsse J, Wiechers JW, van Aelst AC, J Invest Dermatol. 2003 May; 120(5):750-8. [53]
- Alpha hydroxyacids modulate stratum corneum barrier function. Berardesca E, Distante F, Vignoli GP, Oresajo C, Green B, Br J Dermatol. 1997 Dec; 137(6):934-8. [78]
NeoStrata Facial Cleanser Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Gluconolactone, Triethanolamine, Polyquaternium-10, Propylene Glycol, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Glycine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Panthenol, Sodium Chloride, Propylparaben, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol.
NeoStrata Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Gluconolactone, Butylene Glycol, Isocetyl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Triethanolamine, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Diisostearyl Malate, Arginine, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Tocopheryl (Vitamin E) Acetate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Steareth-2, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Propylparaben.
Paula Says GOOD
Paula Begion says that the The NeoStrata Facial Cleanser, 4 PHA is rated as GOOD.
Highlighted Products
Is NeoStrata Any Good?
For a promising product, NeoStrata cleanser and moisturizer have attracted very little commentary from online rosacea sufferers.
Have you tried it? Would you recommend this to other sufferers of rosacea?
I tried NeoStrata with no real success. It was recommended by my aesthetician and I am sadly disappointed that she will only be selling the NeoStrata line in the future. I noticed no improvement of my symptoms and the moisturizer just didn’t do enough for me – and I was using the nighttime moisturizer.