Galderma announced in February a new SPF 50 Facial Sunscreen called Cetaphil UVA/UVB Defense SPF 50. Actually Galderma is not promoting this product as a sunscreen, but as a facial moisturizer.

Said to be non-greasy and hydrating, the UVA/UVB Defense SPF 50 contains 4 chemical filters as well as micronized titanium dioxide to offer a very high sun protection factor of 50. Thus the Defense 50 contains both chemical and physical sun protecting factors.

The Cetaphil range of moisturizers and cleansers are reasonably well tolerated and liked by rosacea sufferers. My daily regime still includes the Gentle Skin Cleanser and Moisturizing Lotion.

Although some rosacea sufferers may not be able to tolerate the chemical sunscreens in this product, it is good news for those who can because the Cetaphil range of products are easily available and generally quite affordable.

The web site for the Cetaphil UVA/UVB Defense SPF 50 lists the following components

Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 7%, Oxybenzone 6%, Titanium Dioxide 5.7%

Inactive Ingredients: Water, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Stearic Acid, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Cyclopen-tasiloxane, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Cetyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Xanthan Gum

What do YOU think ?

This product doesn’t appear to have been used by many rosacea sufferers to date.

The Cetaphil UVA/UVB Defense SPF50 reviews at amazon.com do suggest that users are liking the high sun protection offered, as well as the product being quite moisturizing and easy to apply.

If rosacea sufferers can get past the 4 chemical sunscreens in this product then it may well become a good choice for when you need super sun protection.

Featured Product

Related Articles

• cetaphil moisturizing cream helps rosacea dry skin
• Cetaphil Gentle Cleansing Bar well tolerated, even helps rosacea
• cetaphil gentle skin cleanser well tolerated
• what is the best moisturizer for rosacea ?
• the best moisturisers with sunscreen
• CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser and CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion

For me the sun has always been my worst trigger. Certainly physical sunscreens such as those based on zinc oxide have been immensely helpful to me. Having another option of a gentle sunscreen sounds like a win for all rosacea sufferers.

This patent application is proposing a sunscreen that is not waterproof, so would need to be re-applied regularly. The patent application, which actually reads in part like a product announcement, suggests that in dry conditions protection will be effective for about 2 hours per application of this proposed product.

Composition of a Water-Soluble Sunscreen Preparation for Acne Rosacea, 20090202460, Nieuwenhuijsen; Bart.

The object of the invention is to provide a topical preparation for (acne) rosacea and other sensitive skin types that protects the face from harmful UV rays without the use of chemical sunscreen ingredients. It has long been found that chemical sunscreen ingredients (most popular are oxybenzone and avobenzone) can cause an increase of rosacea symptoms (flushing, erythema, papules) (Nedorost (2003) and Landers et al., 2003). Furthermore, typical waterproof sunscreen preparations also contain various forms of silicones that are used to increase the hydrophobicity of the sunscreen. These waterproof sunscreen preparations impair the release of heat from the skin. The combination of this "trapped heat" and a sensitivity to chemical sunscreen ingredients, is harmful to rosacea skin. Therefore, a sunscreen preparation that is water-soluble and uses alternative UV absorbing and UV scattering ingredients would be very useful in protecting rosacea skin from harmful UV rays.

Claim 1) describes the formulation, including an extract from a woody climbing shrub native to west and central Africa known as Griffonia simplicifolia. The amino acid 5-HTP is one of the building blocks to the neurotransmitter serotonin. Histidine and N-AcetyL-Tyrosine are also amino acids.

1) … The formulation is comprised of titanium dioxide to reflect harmful UV rays and a blend of UV absorbing amino acids, 5-Hydroxy-Tryptophan (from Griffonia simplicifolia extract), Histidine and N-AcetyL-Tyrosine in a gel base.

The Griffonia simplicifolia extract is slightly brown in color, which can offset the white appearance of the Titanium Dioxide.

Related Articles

• the best moisturisers with sunscreen
• micronized zinc oxide dimethicone a safe sunscreen

Sadly there was no conclusion as to whether the extra incidence of sunburn contributed to the severity of their rosacea or if the rosacea symptoms lead to more sunburn events.

Sunburn Linked to Rosacea

Both a blistering sunburn and a family history of rosacea were associated with the presence of rosacea, according to study results presented by Dr. Alexa Boer Kimball, associate professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School, at the recent annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology.

…

While it was not clear whether sunburns contributed to rosacea or patients with rosacea were more likely to sunburn, she said, preventive measures could help lessen rosacea’s severity. Sun has been named the top flare-up trigger by 81 percent of patients in a National Rosacea Society survey (NRS), and in another NRS survey nearly 52 percent said someone else in their family had rosacea.

I think any possible thought that sun damage can cause rosacea is enough to highlight the fact that rosacea sufferers should use a sunscreen every day. A daily sunscreen will also help mitigate any weakness in the skin’s natural protection that might be caused by the diseased skin of rosacea.

Many rosacea sufferers find that physical sunscreens i.e. those that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as their main protective agent can work quite well to protect against the sun and elements. Additionally tinted sunscreens can also help hide the redness often associated with rosacea.

[Update] The presentation from Dr. Kimball is available online: STUDY FINDS FAMILY HISTORY, HIGHER INCIDENCE OF SUNBURNS ASSOCIATED WITH ROSACEA

Whilst no link was found between body mass index and rosacea, Dr. Kimball notes “Future studies should explore the possible connection between a higher BMI and rosacea, as excess weight could be found to be a contributing factor to the condition.” This is worth considering as a possible contributing factor to rosacea – perhaps being overweight places and extra burden on our bodies and could cause problems with increasing our tendency to flush for eg.

Related Articles

• micronized zinc oxide dimethicone a safe sunscreen
• Zinc Oxide or Avobenzone boosts sunscreen protection

I love CHOICE Magazine in Australia. They do great reviews, always concentrating on practical outcomes. A recent report dealt with moisturisers (yes we spell them with an "s") on the Australian market that also contain sunscreen. For those that want both the protection offered by a sunscreen and a good moisturizer, this report is for you. A solid, but gentle cleansing, moisturizing and sunscreen regime is a key requirement for all rosacea sufferers.

Their detailed report is titled Moisturisers with Sunscreen, and is available from their web site for $13.95.

As a special favour to all you out there, here are the 3 cheapest of the recommended products, with their manufacturer’s fancy sounding description.

1. Garnier Nutritionist Regenerating Daily Moisturiser SPF 15 (This day cream helps the appearance of fine lines look smoother and skin look brighter while providing added protection against the signs of ageing with SPF15.)
2. Dove Essential Nutrients Protective Day Cream SPF 15 (Rich, smooth Deep Moisture Day Cream SPF 15 combines broad-spectrum UV protection and rich moisture to quench, hydrate and defend dry skin, for a healthy looking glow that lasts.)
3. Cancer Council Moisturising Face Cream SPF 30+ (A light, non-oily hydrating lotion specially formulated for daily use either alone or under make up. Contains UVA and UVB sunscreen filters for broad spectrum skin protection.)

As well as making some recommendations, the CHOICE report also makes some good points about sunscreens in general.

As well as protecting us from cancer, sunscreen can reduce the signs of premature aging, such as wrinkling, rough skin, broken or burst capillaries, and uneven colouring. The sun is thought to be responsible for about 90% of the visible signs of aging among Australians.

I get the feeling that the average Australia still doesn’t use enough sunscreen, especially given our climate. Perhaps a moisturizer with a sunscreen in one way to get better protection.

Related Articles:

• tinted moisturizers, ever tried them ?
• cetaphil moisturizing cream helps rosacea dry skin
• exotic and expensive cosmetics, do they work ?
• choosing a moisturizer

I had to cringe when I read this article – Golf for Women: First Annual Skin Care Awards. It promotes some fabulously expensive cosmetics. One would really hope that their exotic sounding ingredients actually work. Great to see that Aveeno Ultra-Calming Daily Moisturizer is in this list, and is only $14.

Dior L’Or De Vie La Crème ($320) has a very high concentration of Myobenol C, “an antioxidant that protects against UV rays and environmental stresses,” says Dr. Sadick. It’s extracted from the shoot of sauvignon grapevines.

Aveeno Ultra-Calming Daily Moisturizer SPF 15 ($14) “soothes tight, sunburnt skin and really improves my patients’ facial redness,” says Dr. Baumann. Feverfew, one of the ingredients, promises to prevent facial flushing and relieve acne.

Clinique CX Redness Relief Cream ($75) “is an effective, lightweight cream for rosacea sufferers,” says Dr. Airan. It contains caffeine, sucrose, tea extracts and algae to soothe red, blotchy skin.

Chanel Sublimage Essential Regenerating Cream ($350) “is rich, feels like liquid velvet on contact and smells wonderful,” says Dr. Pak. Vanilla Planifolia, its key ingredient, enhances skin tone and texture.

Kinerase Cream ($117) “contains the active ingredient kinetin, which locks in moisture,” says Dr. Waldorf. “It’s great as an under-eye cream, and the gentle formula is ideal for women with dry, sensitive skin.”

Editor’s Choice

Lancôme Platinéum Hydroxy-Calcium Re-Densifying & Strengthening Cream SPF 15 ($108) proves that calcium is good for more than bones. This cream contains hydroxy-calcium molecules to improve the skin’s strength.

Related Product:

Related Articles:

• aveeno ultra calming with feverfew: product reviews
• kinetin moisturizer (kinerase) well tolerated and shows modest relief
• choosing a moisturizer
• Niacinamide and Moisturizers
• Zia, ADERMA Septalibour, Clinique City Block, Ambre Solaire, Neutrogena Moisture Day Lotion Dermatological Formula

Are sunscreens always beneficial, or can they be detrimental to users? A research team led by UC Riverside chemists reports that unless people out in the sun apply sunscreen often, the sunscreen itself can become harmful to the skin.

When skin is exposed to sunlight, ultraviolet radiation (UV) is absorbed by skin molecules that then can generate harmful compounds, called reactive oxygen species or ROS, which are highly reactive molecules that can cause “oxidative damage.” For example, ROS can react with cellular components like cell walls, lipid membranes, mitochondria and DNA, leading to skin damage and increasing the visible signs of aging.

…

In their research, Hanson and colleagues used epidermal model tissue and applied sunscreen to the surface to test the effect of sunscreen penetration on ROS levels in the deep epidermis. A two-photon fluorescence microscope allowed them to visualize ROS generation occurring below the skin surface. The ROS activity was detected using a probe molecule whose fluorescent properties change upon exposure to ROS. On comparing images taken before and after the skin was exposed to UV radiation, they found that ROS generation in the skin increased after sunscreen penetration.

…

“For now, the best advice is to use sunscreens and re-apply them often — the Skin Cancer Foundation recommends every two hours, and especially after sweating or swimming, which can wash away sunscreen — to reduce the amount of UV radiation from getting through to filters that have penetrated the skin,” Bardeen said. “This, in turn, would reduce ROS generation.”

A recently published paper attempting to find a genetic marker for rosacea, chose reactive oxygen species or ROS as an indicator for rosacea symptoms.

Related Articles

• a genetic marker for rosacea ?
• Zinc Oxide or Avobenzone boosts sunscreen protection
• nano zinc oxide and titanium dioxide being watched
• melanotan (epitan) offers sun protection for fair skin individuals
• mexoryl: sunscreen with good UVA filtering
• micronized zinc oxide dimethicone a safe sunscreen

The sunscreen is claimed to offer “Very high factor tinted sun protection for skins that are prone to erythrosis or rosacea (diffuse redness or visible small blood vessels) for the face, neck and cleavage.” The mention of both physical and chemical sunscreen filters, and the fact that the chemical sunscreens are not detailed suggests that those with the most sensitive of skins may not benefit from this product.

This sunscreen is in addition to 2 other Arubix products that contain Golden Camomile: `Arubix M Anti Redness Cream’ for combination skin and `Arubix S Anti Redness Cream’ for dry and sensitive skin.

• Rosacea News: Arubix Anti Redness Cream now available
• Rosacea News: Arubix anti-redness reviews and research
• Rosacea News: Eucerin Redness Relief: product reviews
• Rosacea News: licochalcone A (licorice extract) and skin cells

This paper shows that adding zinc oxide or Avobenzone to a sunscreen improves the broad spectrum protection that it offers – as much as double or triple their UVA protection. Zinc Oxide and Avobenzone are the only 2 approved sunscreens for broad spectrum protection.

Avobenzone and zinc oxide: Maximizing UVA efficacy for effective broadspectrum protection in sunscreen products

Exposure of unprotected skin to solar UV radiation (SUVR) induces damage that can lead to the clinical appearance of erythema or edema from acute exposure and photoaging or cancer from chronic exposure. Solar UVR comprises UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelengths, with the latter accounting for about 94% of the solar UVR striking earth’s surface. UVR damages molecules in skin either directly after absorption or indirectly through oxidative events mediated by reactive oxygen species (ROS). UVB primarily exerts direct damage (especially to DNA), whereas UVA operates mainly through the intermediacy of ROS.

Topical application of sunscreens affords skin significant protection during periods of exposure to SUVR. While specifically designed to protect against erythema, sunscreens also help protect against immune suppression, photoaging, and cancer. Initially, sunscreen products focused more on protecting skin from the UVB portion of SUVR, since the shorter wavelengths are more potent biologically.

However, accumulating experimental evidence has suggested that SUVR evokes much more complex biologic responses within skin than can be explained by merely adding responses caused by UVB to those caused by UVA separately. This suggests that UVA plays an important role in orchestrating skin damage caused by SUVR and provides compelling reasons for sunscreen products to protect skin broadly from both UVB and UVA in a balanced manner.

Here, we present SPF and PFA (protection factor A) measurements to demonstrate the power of either avobenzone or zinc oxide (ZnO) in combination with other sunscreens to deliver high SPF broad-spectrum protection to human skin.

We show that some sunscreen combinations with avobenzone or ZnO can double or triple the UVA protection, compared with compositions of similar SPF that do not contain avobenzone or ZnO. Avobenzone and ZnO currently represent the only sunscreen actives approved for use in the United States that are capable of conferring true broad-spectrum protection.

We also demonstrate that the addition of recognized photostabilizers and omission of photochemically incompatible ingredients also preserve avobenzone’s photostability after exposure up to 15 MED. Enhancing avobenzone’s photostability enables it to provide sustained UVA and significant protection during prolonged periods of exposure to SUVR.

Author disclosure: Nothing disclosed at press time.

Supported by Schering-Plough Consumer HealthCare Products. (maker of the coppertone and bain de soliel brands)

Poster Discussion Session P2604, American Academy of Dermatology, 64th Annual Meeting, March 3-7 2006, San Francisco. Supplement to Journal of The American Academy of Dermatology, March 2006, Volume 54, Number 3.

• JAAD Poster Abstracts Online

 

Related Articles

• mexoryl: sunscreen with good UVA filtering
• micronized zinc oxide dimethicone a safe sunscreen
• rosasol: metronidazole with sunscreen for Canadians
• reapply sunscreen to avoid skin damage

 

Mar Recasens, PhD, Josep Maria Reig, PhD, Carles Trullas, PhD, Carles Pelejero, PhD, Isdin Skin Research Center, Barcelona, Spain

Ultraviolet radiation is well-known to induce a range of deleterious effects on human skin such as photoaging and photoimmunosuppression, and can lead to the development of skin cancer. The UV radiation increases the release of VEGF, IL- 1 alfa and the overexpression of enzymes such as MMP-1. VEGF provides a major angiogenic activity in tumor progression and invasion. IL-1a is a proinflammatory cytokine that stimulates proliferation, differentiation, and activation of various epithelial and endothelial cells, and the production of other cytokines involved in inflammatory skin diseases, histamine release, and systemic and local immunosuppression. The matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes are responsible for breaking down macromolecules of the skin ECM; in particular, MMP-1 can hydrolyze type I and III collagen, and seems to play a crucial role in the disorganization and progressive degeneration of dermal ECM. We used human skin equivalents to study the efficiency of a SPF-90 sunscreen in preventing the VEGF, IL-1a and MMP-1 release induced by UVB radiation. Skin equivalents, either treated or untreated with SPF-90 sunscreen at 2 mg/cm2, were exposed to 300 and 600 mJ/cm2 of UVB. To assess the UVB-induced damaging effects, we investigated the following events 24 hours after UVB irradiation: VEGF, IL-1 IL-1a, and MMP-1 release in the culture medium by ELISA and cell viability. The results of this study reveal that the unprotected UVB-irradiated skin equivalents show increased VEGF, IL-1 IL-1a, and MMP-1 release, and decreased cell viability. In contrast those skin equivalents treated with sunscreen show a significantly lower VEGF, IL-1 IL-1a, and MMP-1 release and higher cell viability. We concluded that this SPF-90 sunscreen provides an efficient protection against UVB-induced VEGF, IL-1 IL-1a, and MMP-1 release.

Author disclosure: Researcher at Isdin Skin Research Center. 100% sponsored by Isdin Skin Research Center.

Poster Discussion Session P2610, American Academy of Dermatology, 64th Annual Meeting, March 3-7 2006, San Francisco.

Supplement to Journal of The American Academy of Dermatology, March 2006, Volume 54, Number 3.

• JAAD Poster Abstracts Online (29Mb)
• Poster Session Online

Related Articles:

• mexoryl: sunscreen with good UVA filtering
• micronized zinc oxide dimethicone a safe sunscreen
• VEGF and vasodilation
• retinaldehyde may reduce VEGF

In a December 2005 message titled Safety of sunscreens containing nanoparticles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, the TGA – Therapeutic Goods Administration (who are responsible for Regulating Australia’s medicines, medical devices, blood, tissues and chemicals) have stated that

Further research is needed to establish if these materials are absorbed into human skin and if so what effects they may have if they are absorbed. The Therapeutic Goods Administration is monitoring the emerging scientific literature in this area and working cooperatively with international agencies to monitor these issues and ensure that appropriate action is undertaken if any risks are identified.

There are several years of experience of nano particle based sunscreens in Australia, including nano particles of titanium dioxide have been in use since 1990. The theoretical risk being investigated is that the particles are small enough to be absorbed into the skin. Once the particles are absorbed, any interaction with the sun and lower layers of skin is unknown.

There are over 500 therapeutic products registered in Australia that contain nano particles of either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

A related concern raised in 1997 was that the nano particles could break down and damage the cell DNA. This concern has been mitigated by the publication of 3 papers that showed that coating the particles in dimethicone produced a safe photostable sunscreen. See micronized zinc oxide dimethicone a safe sunscreen for more details.

Featured Products:

Related Articles:

• TGA: Safety of sunscreens containing nanoparticles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide
• Sydney Morning Herald: Sunscreen put under spotlight
• ABC Science News: Nano sunblock safety under scrutiny
• micronized zinc oxide dimethicone a safe sunscreen
• mexoryl: sunscreen with good UVA filtering
• rosasol: would you like sunscreen with your metrogel ?
• Arubix adds spf 50 sunscreen
• melanotan (epitan) offers sun protection for fair skin individuals
• Zinc Oxide or Avobenzone boosts sunscreen protection
• reapply sunscreen to avoid skin damage