Already available in Canada, Cetaphil will introduce a new line of products for dry sensitive skin in August in the US. The line is called RestoraDERM and is targeted at Eczema sufferers who struggle to maintain the natural moisture balance of their skin. For

For those rosacea sufferers who also have eczema or also struggle with moisturizing extra dry or itchy skin, this range may be worth a try.

I suspect that the moisturizer may initial seem thick compared to other moisturizers familiar to rosacea sufferers. Please leave a comment below if you do try them. What are they like ? Do they help you battle with any of you rosacea symptoms ?

The Canadian web site for RestoraDERM tells us that the soap-free liquid cleanser is said to encapsulate high levels of moisturizing oils to cleanse and hydrate dry skin, whilst the lotion is said to contain patented ceramide technology to replenish the skin’s natural oils to help the skin to retain its natural moisture.

We are also told that both products are `clinically proven to be suitable for total-body use—including the face’ and are `ideal for the entire family’ and that the products have been demonstrated to relieve dryness and itching.

When Galderma acquired Collagenex in 2008, Collagenex listed a technology known as Restoraderm (along with Oracea and Sansrosa) as one of the assets acquired. Restoraderm at that time was described as a “proprietary, foam-based, topical drug delivery technology”. It isn’t clear to me whether this product is related to this technology or is something else entirely.

Ingredients

Thanks to sans002 for the list of ingredients for this new range.

Cetaphil RESTORADERM Eczema Moisturizing Wash Ingredients

water, shea butter, sodium trideceth sulfate, glycerin, sunflower seed oil, sodium chloride, sodium laurampoacetate, cocamide MEA, citric acid, niacinamide, sodium PCA, tocopheryl acetate, 1,2-Hexanediol and caprylyl glycol, disodium EDTA. guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, allantoin, potassium sorbate, arginine, methylisothiazolinone

Cetaphil RESTORADERM Eczema Moisturizing Lotion Ingredients

water, glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sunflower seed oil, pentylene glycol, shea butter, sorbitol, cyclopentasiloxane, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, tocopheryl acetate, hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine, cetyl alcohol, arginine, disodium ethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate, glyceryl stearate citrate, niacinamide, sodium PCA, ceteareth-20, sodium polyacrylate, caprylyl glycol, allantoin, citric acid, panthenol, dimethiconol, disodium EDTA, sodium hyaluronate

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La Roche-Posay are not particularly well known in the rosacea world but they do sponsor the National Rosacea Society and have a range of products, called Rosaliac, that targets rosacea sufferers.

The company is taking the opportunity of the rosacea awareness month and their support of the NRS to promote a new product – Rosaliac UV Fortifying Anti-Redness Moisturizer with SPF 15.

The ingredients of this product are hard to find, all I can see is the generic “a patented combination of ingredients including Vitamin CG, Xanthine and thermal spring water to help neutralize visible redness” as well as a “patented broad spectrum filtering system to help protect against UVA and UVB rays”.

The ingredients for the related Rosaliac Skin Perfecting Anti-Redness Moisturizer are listed here: Rosaliac with xanthine, vitamin CG & B3. We would need to know what La Roche-Posay have included to add broad spectrum sun protection before giving it a tick for rosacea sufferers.

Rosaliac (apparently the range with the highest loyalty in the La Roche-Posay offering) is said to provide an instant relief of visible redness due to a light green tint. This sort of approach might not be to all rosacea sufferers’ liking. How do you find this product ?

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When rosacea sufferers are first diagnosed it can be confusing to know how to include prescription topicals into their daily skincare regime. Rosacea patients want to know both that their expensive prescription medication has the best chance of working and that their current skin care system can still work.

In the most recent `Ask a Doctor’ column at the NRS web site Dr. Draelos confirms that rosacea topicals should be applied before any moisturizer or sunscreen or makeup.

Am I able to put a moisturizer over the topical therapy before I apply my makeup?

Yes, moisturizer may be used after applying topical medication without affecting the therapeutic outcome of your prescription. In fact, moisturizer may often be of help in preventing the burning, stinging, itching and irritation associated with rosacea.

I usually advise my patients to wait five to 10 minutes after applying a topical medication before applying a moisturizer, and then wait another five to 10 minutes before applying makeup. This will give your skin a chance to better absorb the medication and keep it from coming off on your fingers as you apply the moisturizer. Waiting before applying makeup may in turn improve cosmetic results.

This confirms the view held by Dr. Powell in his landmark book Rosacea: Diagnosis and Management. In Chapter 8 Dr. Powell tells us in italics that Drugs have priority-they go on first !

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Galderma announced in February a new SPF 50 Facial Sunscreen called Cetaphil UVA/UVB Defense SPF 50. Actually Galderma is not promoting this product as a sunscreen, but as a facial moisturizer.

Said to be non-greasy and hydrating, the UVA/UVB Defense SPF 50 contains 4 chemical filters as well as micronized titanium dioxide to offer a very high sun protection factor of 50. Thus the Defense 50 contains both chemical and physical sun protecting factors.

The Cetaphil range of moisturizers and cleansers are reasonably well tolerated and liked by rosacea sufferers. My daily regime still includes the Gentle Skin Cleanser and Moisturizing Lotion.

Although some rosacea sufferers may not be able to tolerate the chemical sunscreens in this product, it is good news for those who can because the Cetaphil range of products are easily available and generally quite affordable.

The web site for the Cetaphil UVA/UVB Defense SPF 50 lists the following components

Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 7%, Oxybenzone 6%, Titanium Dioxide 5.7%

Inactive Ingredients: Water, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Stearic Acid, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Cyclopen-tasiloxane, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Cetyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Xanthan Gum

What do YOU think ?

This product doesn’t appear to have been used by many rosacea sufferers to date.

The Cetaphil UVA/UVB Defense SPF50 reviews at amazon.com do suggest that users are liking the high sun protection offered, as well as the product being quite moisturizing and easy to apply.

If rosacea sufferers can get past the 4 chemical sunscreens in this product then it may well become a good choice for when you need super sun protection.

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Showing just how important the internet is becoming for marketing new cosmetics, Pyratine XR has recently launched with a lot of press activity. As well as Senetek’s press releases on the internet I was also contacted by 2 PR representatives trying to get me to cover the release of this `new’ product. Pyratine XR was launched at the South Beach Dermatology Symposium in Miami on Feb 14 and also on March 6 at the AAD Annual Meeting in San Francisco.

The press release activity is based on an as-yet unpublished study of 18 mild to moderate rosacea over a period of 48 weeks.

So what is the difference between Kinerase, Pyratine-6 and Pyratine XR ? Well firstly they are all expensive over the counter cosmetics. The active ingredient in these products is furfuryl tetrahydropyranyladenine. As cosmetic products none of these can make claims to treat any particular disease.

Kinerase

Kinerase Cream contains 0.1% N6-furfuryladenine.

The ingredients of Kinerase are listed as: purified water, glyceryl stearate and laureth-23, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil, soya sterol, stearyl alcohol, dimethicone, imidazolidinyl urea, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, methylparaben, soluble collagen, carbomer, N6-furfuryladenine, panthenol, propylparaben, triethanolamine, ascorbic acid, hydrolyzed elastin, and aloe barbadensis leaf juice.

Pyratine-6

Pyratine 6 contains 0.1% N6-furfuryladenine and is marketed as an anti-aging product and as Senetek’s `second-generation patented cytokinin’

Pyratine XR

Pyratine XR contains 0.125% N6-furfuryladenine and is marketed as a rosacea product once Senetek increased the amount of the active ingredient and initiated the unpublished study mentioned in this article. It looks to me that the Red R in the labelling is also trying to suggest that this product is for rosacea sufferers.

Product Feedback

There is some strong skepticism about Pyratine XR over at the Rosacea Forum

I agree with Melissa:

1. The stuff is ridiculously expensive
2. It went “cosmetic” as to avoid having to conduct rigorous testing
3. It’s claims are yet to be approved by the FDA as far as I could find
4. There are no 3rd party tests of this product, only in house research done by the company
5. In the tests that were done the claim was that it was tested on people with mild to moderate rosacea, but the test data itself remains largely unpublished.
   Further: http://www.dermatology.uci.edu/IID%2…er%20final.pdf
   Are you kidding me? If the two test subjects pictured are the best examples to sell this product then it appears to only work well for those with really, really, really mild Rosacea.
6. I haven’t heard one good thing about Pyratine 6 from a real Rosacea sufferer, it is hard to imagine why this is going to be that much better
7. Spamming Rosacea web boards for business suggests a $ grab
8. I don’t know why this plant derivative substance is significantly different from others that have been around for some time that claim to also be anti-inflammatory and effective on ROS.
   Bottom line, there is no real reason to believe this product will work imo, but the jury is out. Once is comes out, if some reliable people post good results it might be worth a try. I would prefer seeing a large scale 3rd party double blind study on it.

Pyratine XR was due to be launched at the SF AAD Meeting. An interesting post from badhairday gives some insight into what this launch actually meant ;

Hi all,

Thought this would be helpful info re: Pyratine XR. I realize I don’t regularly post but I thought this was important. My sister in-law is a Derm. She attended the National Dermatology Conference in San Francisco this past weekend. I asked her to find this product and try to get me the inside scoop – like all of us I am cautiously hopeful of anything new but also skeptical. Here’s what she found.

The Pyratine XR booth – was a VERY hard to find tiny booth. There were two women representing the product (she said the ladies seemed a little sketchy – not necessarily important info but I trust my sisters judgement ). Just a few before and after pictures of people who had trialed it for 48 weeks – but NO real data on how the product works and the women wouldn’t get into any detail. They would only conditionally commit to give her 6 free samples (enough for the 48 months per patient) BUT the Dr. had to commit to recording results of their patients (data and pictures) through the period of the trial and report back to the company. If the Dr. didn’t want to commit to the following though on data gathering they would need to pay $400 + per patient (for an 48 month trial). This product will be sold over the counter only in physician offices (no pharmacies). My sister-in-law was concerned that this company was trying to solicit Doctors to do the research for them for free rather than setting up an actual study where patients are paid. Further she was sceptical that they wouldn’t give any free samples (it is $150 per tube!)

She reported that b/c it’s over the counter it doesn’t have to go though any “real” testing (a lot easier to get approved). Just need to prove that it doesn’t harm anyone. It seems to be a glorified anti aging product with natural plant exact ingredients which probably will be ok for many of us to use as most of the ingredients looked fairly benign. But it’s hard to say if it will have any effect on rosacea at this point. Her recommendation was to wait a year and not spend the money as it didn’t look promising enough and it didn’t have enough to back it up that would make it a worth while product at this point. Sorry to burst any bubbles – and again what doesn’t work for one may work for another and obviously a few people on this sight have had some luck. The product representation just seemed a little sketchy for me.

Good luck all – hope this helps a few of us to save a few bucks and… Jen

Paula Begoun has this to say about Kinetin.

Kinetin is a plant-growth hormone, and its technical name is N6-furfuryladenine. What makes kinetin interesting are the in vitro and animal studies demonstrating its effect as a growth factor.

…

I suspect that when it’s applied topically, kinetin isn’t of much use to the skin cell, and even if it could be utilized, there probably isn’t enough kinetin in any product to have a negative or positive impact but that is only a guess, no one knows for sure (Source: Dermatologic Clinics, October 2000, pages 609-615).

User Reviews & Feedback

As Pyratine XR has only recently launched there aren’t many testimonials available yet. Here are some thoughts from users of the related product Pyratine 6.

From DukeCity; I still am using the creme and think it’s the best moisturizer I’ve ever had, as far as toning down redness it’s so subjective, as I’ve had multiple IPL/Laser TX and am taking Oracea daily. But it is the only topical I’ve been using since last Feb./March. I will definitly be buying the Pyratine/RX as soon as it comes to public sale…

From dallascowgirl; On March 14, 2009, I will have completed a year using Pyratine- 6 lotion. (I tried the cream but it made my skin break out.) I still like it as much as ever– the first moisterizer I’ve ever been able to use. In this year, I have only used two 2.5 oz. tubes. I use a pea size glop twice a day while my face is slightly damp. I have had acne rosacea since I was 13 years old. Today, I have no breakout and my face skin is smooth, a little pink on my chin. Though it is expensive, I think I’ve actually saved money this year from not running out and buying the newest cream every month. Will I try the the new one? I really haven’t decided yet.

From sophie; I started using Pyratine last sept or oct, and loved my skin more after only a week or two. There has been a SMALL reduction in P&Ps [I still have them]. Likewise a SMALL reduction in redness [I'm still red]. The BIG difference was in the overall smoothness of my skin. Its still rougher than your average persons, but I’m quite sure that its the smoothest its been since pre-puberty [I'm now 33]. Funnily enough, I wonder whether my spider veins are now more defined now cause my skin is clearer. The other downside is that prolonged use hasn’t made my skin any better i.e. the almost immediate improvement has remained but not increased.

Over to You

So now that you have read all this background information, do you plan on trying Pyratine XR ?

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So now you know; you can apply your topicals before or after you moisturize and it won’t make any difference.

Impact of order of application of moisturizers on percutaneous absorption kinetics: evaluation of sequential application of moisturizer lotions and azelaic acid gel 15% using a human skin model, Cutis. 2009 Mar; 83(3):119-24., Del Rosso JQ, Lehman PA, Raney SG., Valley Hospital Medical Center, Las Vegas, Nevada, USA.

The medical management of rosacea increasingly has involved not only the appropriate selection of topical medication but also patient education and specific recommendations regarding appropriate skin care. The recognition that epidermal barrier dysfunction and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) play a pathophysiologic role in rosacea and that skin moisturization may help to mitigate signs and symptoms of the disease has led to a deeper appreciation of the importance of proper skin care in the treatment of rosacea. Data from a percutaneous penetration study performed using human skin suggest that any of the tested moisturizer lotions may be applied either before or after azelaic acid gel 15% without a major change in the percutaneous absorption profile of azelaic acid.

[Update]: a quote from Dr. Powell’s excellent book: Rosacea Diagnosis and Management says that  the medicine should always go on first; Drugs have priority-they go on first ! he tells us in italics.

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This paper looks to be suggesting that the silymarin/msm containing topical, rosacure/synchrorose was well tolerated and helps with the redness of rosacea. Silibinin (INN) (silybin, Legalon®) is the major active constituent of silymarin, the mixture of flavonolignans extracted from plant Milk thistle. Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM, or dimethylsulfone) is an organic sulfur compound belonging to a class of chemicals known as sulfones.

Rosacure has received only gentle reviews from rosacea sufferers, but as this study was double blind, there may indeed be some small benefits seen as detailed in this study.

Combined effects of silymarin and methylsulfonylmethane in the management of rosacea: clinical and instrumental evaluation, J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008 Mar;7(1):8-14., Berardesca E, Cameli N, Cavallotti C, Levy JL, Piérard GE, de Paoli Ambrosi G. ,San Gallicano Dermatological Institute, Rome, Italy.

Objective: This study aims to evaluate a topical treatment based on silymarin/methylsulfonilmethane (S-MSM) to improve erythematous-telangiectactic rosacea.

Methods: Forty-six patients affected by stage I-III rosacea entered this double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Subjects were treated for 1 month. Clinical and instrumental evaluations were done at baseline, after 10 and 20 days, and at the end of the study. Itching, stinging, erythema, and papules were investigated clinically as well as hydration and erythema instrumentally with capacitance and color measurements.

Results: A statistically significant improvement was observed in many clinical and instrumental parameters investigated (P < 0.001). In particular, improvement of skin redness, papules, itching, hydration, and skin color occurred.

Conclusions: The combination of silymarin and S-MSM can be useful in managing symptoms and condition of rosacea skin, especially in the rosacea subtype 1 erythemato-telangiectatic phase. The action can be considered multicentric and multiphase because of the direct modulating action on cytokines and angiokines normally involved and up-regulated in the case of such skin condition.

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Claiming to measurably reduce redness, a new range of products for problem red skin called Clinique Redness Solutions has recently been launched. This range is another attempt by Clinique to enter the rosacea treatment market. Previous Clinique products targetted at rosacea sufferers have only ever received a luke warm response.

The new Clinique Redness Solutions range consists of ;

• Redness Solutions Urgent Relief Cream is said “rushes soothing relief to upset skin. Quickly calms flare-ups of visible redness, irritation.”
• Redness Solutions Daily Protective Base SPF 15 is claimed “Protects skin from the UVA/UVB exposure that can aggravate skins with Rosacea or reactive redness. Does it without chemical sunscreens.”
• Redness Solutions Daily Relief Cream is said to “instantly calm skins with Rosacea. Relieves visible redness, blotchiness. Soothes to cool discomfort. Over time, helps improve skin’s comfort, lessens the look of broken capillaries.”
• Redness Solutions Soothing Cleanser is said to “melt away makeup and impurities. Helps calm redness, irritation while preserving skin’s moisture balance. Smooth with mild exfoliation. Leaves skin clean, comforted.”
• [NEW] Redness Solutions Instant Relief Mineral Powder claims that this powder will reduce visible redness and `broken capillaries virtually disappear-instantly and for hours’. Further `Patent-pending formula helps skin “keep its cool.” Oil-free, talc-free. With anti-bacterial brush. Appropriate for skins with mild-to-moderate Rosacea or reactive redness.’

Update: The Urgent Relief Cream contains hydrocortisone 0.5%. Perhaps some care should be used with the Urgent Relief Cream as we know that over the counter steroids can cause rosacea itself.

Paul H says:

I have been using the Clinique daily redness relief cream and it is really good. I have been unable to tolerate ANYTHING – but this seems to be ok. The “urgent relief cream” is OK also, but it is mainly for “itching,” and doesn’t work as well as the daily redness relief cream, which is very soothing.

bellemichelle says:

The urgent relief cream is NOT a rosacea product, but for reactive redness. It’s just hydrocortizone actually, and hydrocortizone doesn’t do anything for rosacea. Save your money on that one, especially at $30!

The daily relief cream is identical to the CX relief cream, just less expensive. I like it though, it’s a nice mild moisturizer. Don’t believe the claims about it “over time reducing rosacea flare-ups”, I can’t believe how much companies get away with in their marketing!

They have a sunscreen and cleanser too. The sunscreen is too oily for my skin, but it’s gentle at least, I didn’t react to it. The cleanser is my favorite product, it’s mild and non-reactive and it doesn’t dry your skin out.

mecheleshnm says:

Hi, I’ve been using Clinique’s Redness Relief for a week so far. Results are good, not great. On the plus side, it’s the only product I’ve tried (and I’ve tried a lot!) that gives me immediate relief. The relief though only lasts a few hours. I’m going to keep using it
because and relief is welcome– and it costs $40! I’ll check back in a month and let you know how it’s going.

Katgo says:

I swung by the clinique counter for something else right before christmas and saw this line…of course I had to try it! I bought the cleanser ($25), the moisturizer ($65), i refused to buy the calming stuff since it was full of hydrocortisone. Basically, it’s a total waste of money. The cleanser was nice, but not worth that kind of cash, and the cream is meant for all the clinique skintypes(1,2,3,4) therefore isn’t very moisurizing.

I used it for three days and called it quits. My skin is combination and this stuff was making it very dry/dehyrated, which in turn lead to my face becoming more red! The women at the clinique counter also said they had a training on this product and were told to tell clients not even to use other clinique products in combination with this stuff or it would effect results, so who knows if they want you to even take your meds with these products.

Lucky for me, the clinique counter took all these products back, so you can always try it pretty risk free. If you do buy this product, I hope you have better results

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Your Turn

What about you ? Do you like these new products ? Are you excited that Clinique is now directly addressing rosacea ? Leave a comment below to let us all know what you think.

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Previous studies that have been highlighted by Rosacea News have also shown that topical kinetin is a good anti-aging moisturizer for rosacea sufferers and may even show some benefit for rosacea symptoms.

The clinical anti-aging effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative trial.

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Dec;6(4):243-9. Chiu PC, Chan CC, Lin HM, Chiu HC. Department of Dermatology, National Taiwan University Hospital and National Taiwan University College of Medicine, Taipei, Taiwan, and Center of Anti-aging and Health Consultation, National Taiwan University Hospital, Taipei, Taiwan.

Background: Kinetin and niacinamide are used in the cosmetic industry as anti-aging agents. Neither the interactive/additive effects of these compounds nor the anti-aging efficacy on Asian skin has been studied.

Objective: To assess the clinical anti-aging effects and efficacy differences between kinetin plus niacinamide and niacinamide alone vs. vehicle placebo in an Asian cohort.

Methods: Fifty-two Taiwanese subjects were enrolled in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative study. Group 1 subjects were treated with kinetin 0.03% plus niacinamide 4%, whereas group 2 subjects received niacinamide 4%. The treatment formulation was applied on one side of the face, whereas a placebo was applied on the other for a period of 12 weeks. We used noninvasive biometrological instruments to evaluate a variety of skin parameters at baseline and at weeks 4, 8, and 12.

Results: Persistent and significant reductions in spot, pore, wrinkle, and evenness counts were found at weeks 8 and 12 in group 1. A significant increase in corneal hydration status was also evident at week 12, whereas persistent decreases in erythema index were apparent at 8 and 12 weeks. In group 2, significant reductions in pore and evenness counts at week 8 and wrinkle counts at week 12 were noted.

Conclusion: We found kinetin and niacinamide exert a synergistic anti-aging effect. Our data suggest that these compounds have multiactive, multifunctional, and pluripotent effects on skin. They are also both promising to be included in the cutaneous anti-aging cosmeceuticals in the future.

Have you tried Kinerase or any other topical that contains Kinetin ? What did you think of it ? Leave us a comment below.

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I love CHOICE Magazine in Australia. They do great reviews, always concentrating on practical outcomes. A recent report dealt with moisturisers (yes we spell them with an "s") on the Australian market that also contain sunscreen. For those that want both the protection offered by a sunscreen and a good moisturizer, this report is for you. A solid, but gentle cleansing, moisturizing and sunscreen regime is a key requirement for all rosacea sufferers.

Their detailed report is titled Moisturisers with Sunscreen, and is available from their web site for $13.95.

As a special favour to all you out there, here are the 3 cheapest of the recommended products, with their manufacturer’s fancy sounding description.

1. Garnier Nutritionist Regenerating Daily Moisturiser SPF 15 (This day cream helps the appearance of fine lines look smoother and skin look brighter while providing added protection against the signs of ageing with SPF15.)
2. Dove Essential Nutrients Protective Day Cream SPF 15 (Rich, smooth Deep Moisture Day Cream SPF 15 combines broad-spectrum UV protection and rich moisture to quench, hydrate and defend dry skin, for a healthy looking glow that lasts.)
3. Cancer Council Moisturising Face Cream SPF 30+ (A light, non-oily hydrating lotion specially formulated for daily use either alone or under make up. Contains UVA and UVB sunscreen filters for broad spectrum skin protection.)

As well as making some recommendations, the CHOICE report also makes some good points about sunscreens in general.

As well as protecting us from cancer, sunscreen can reduce the signs of premature aging, such as wrinkling, rough skin, broken or burst capillaries, and uneven colouring. The sun is thought to be responsible for about 90% of the visible signs of aging among Australians.

I get the feeling that the average Australia still doesn’t use enough sunscreen, especially given our climate. Perhaps a moisturizer with a sunscreen in one way to get better protection.

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